Gullah Culture Spices Everything Charleston

If it can be said that the English brought "sophistication" to the local culture, then perhaps it can also be said that African-Americans brought "spice." So strong is this rich and enduring influence, it has flavored everything Lowcountry, from the food to the music to the architectural intricacies of the finest buildings. So important is this influence to the fabric of the community, like salt in a stew, it is forever intertwined with everything Charleston.

For visitors, exploring the African-American culture in Charleston is an interesting and exciting undertaking. The stories of slavery are troubling, but what has endured through the worst of times speaks volumes about the strength of the human spirit.

Alphonso Brown touches people everyday with his stories about the African-American heritage of Charleston. "I like to tell visitors about the Jenkins Orphanage," begins Brown, the owner and operator of Gullah Tours. "In 1891, Rev. Daniel Joseph Jenkins asked the city for a place to house his orphans. The city gave him a huge building on Franklin Street which became the Jenkins Orphanage."

Rev. Jenkins taught the children different occupations. He taught some children how to play musical instruments, and soon the orphanage became famous for its band.

"The orphans toured all over Europe, and all over the eastern coast of America," continues Brown. "Once while in New York, the band met a ragtime composer by the name of James P. Johnson. Johnson taught the boys some of his music and taught the boys a little dance step that went along with the music. When boys returned to Charleston, they played the music on the streets and did the dance. Soon the young white girls began imitating the boys’ dance. And the dance became known as the Charleston." Brown’s eyes sparkle as he ends his story, proudly seeing the boys dancing in his minds eye.

"I tell the story about Porgy," Brown continues, using his dramatic story-telling skills. "There really was a Porgy, and there really was a Bess. The real Porgy was Sammy Smalls, who was given the nickname from his fisherman friends because they said he was good at catching the porgy, or the fish.

"Now Porgy was a mean and vicious person. "He’d killed three or four men during his lifetime. Unfortunately in 1924, Porgy, the poor fella, took sick. Worse than that, Porgy was fixed.

"We’ve got a saying," he says. "Someone put a fix on Porgy. And Porgy succumbed to a mysterious illness, and died."

Just as Brown entertains tourists with his lighthearted tales, Brown’s stories about slavery and the underground railroad that carried too-few of his ancestors to freedom in Florida, are designed to teach. His tour is truly a memorable and inspiring look at African-American Charleston.

Editor’s Note: I personally had the pleasure of interviewing Alphonso Brown for this article in early March 2001. As I began the process of transcribing the tape of our conversation, the most unusual event occurred. In my transcription I had worked my way to the point in the interview Mr. Brown had concluded his story about Porgy. I then asked him to tell me more about "the fix" or voodoo. At that precise point in the interview, the tape was mysteriously erased, and did not pick up again until two or three minutes later when Mr. Brown concluded his short commentary on the topic with the words, "And that’s powerful stuff!" I agree, Mr. Brown. That is powerful stuff.

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