Many moons ago, I boastfully called Charleston "the most haunted city in North America" on worldwide television. It was during the witching season, and I was leading a five-person camera crew from CNN around some of the city's darker alleys, side streets, and even a musty subterranean dungeon, by the light of a foul-smelling railroad lantern. These media folk had heard the rumors and stories that surround Charleston, and had enlisted me - a self-professed expert on the supernatural underbelly of the Holy City - to be their guide. While we saw none of the city's notorious nocturnal dwellers that October evening, it was clear to all of us that this place has a seriously macabre history - still, the most haunted city in North America?
Since my small-screen debut, I've heard my comment rebuked countless times, especially from people in places like Gettysburg, Salem and Savannah. I don't believe there is actually a way to gauge the supernatural activities of a particular area. Not long ago, I got a call from a gentleman out West who ran a ghost tour from a bus. He proudly claimed that he was the possessor of a "ghost finder," something he found to be an "absolute necessity" on his tours. I weaseled enough information from him to determine this piece of equipment was no more than the same meter that electricians carry to determine if something is giving off juice. His main selling point was that this thing detected "movement." This sort of technology only exists inside the realm of Hollywood, or the very fringes of cutting edge parapsychology.
Despite what might seem like an overwhelming cynicism towards those intent on making ghost stories hokey, I thoroughly enjoy discussing the ghosts in my hometown with large groups of listeners. I can be found nightly, under the veil of darkness, leading people into crepuscular grottos about town, espousing what I have learned about this vague, wispy subject. Most of the research I discuss on tour - what later evolved into the book The Ghosts of Charleston, which I co-authored with Julian T. Buxton III - came from growing up with some fairly disappointing ghost stories, stories that lacked any sort of real historical bonds or tangible specificity. I became obsessed with revealing "real" ghost stories, not Victorian conundrums that left the reader or the listener begging for a meaty detail, be it a scent or a psychological reason for ghostdom.
My quest led me to ask some fairly brazen questions of citizens generally known more for aloofness than candor, especially when discussing that tight fraternity south of Broad. I'd anticipated being shunned as if I were asking about some deranged, inbred old uncle who chugged whisky in the attic and had a thing for young neighborhood boys. Indeed, many of those I questioned were clearly in denial about their ghosts. But in general I sensed a secret eagerness in the folks who confided stories of spirits that linger in their homes or places of work. Their enthusiasm made me a believer. Too many respectable citizens have offered me too much evidence. Numerous "off the record" tales of aristocrats gone bad, tragic deaths, and sad, lonely people came to the surface. I learned there is a profound sense of pride and honor in being able to claim a resident specter, regardless of the desperation or tragedy that inspired a once-living being to become a ghost.
Not everyone is privileged enough to actually see a ghost. Nonbelievers see apparitions often, usually the spirit world telling them to abandon arrogance and realize more exists in this world than football, meat and potatoes, to paraphrase Shakespeare. I know a gentleman who owns a beautiful antebellum inn downtown who swears himself to be completely immune to the possibility of a spectral, spiritual side to history. Yet every once and awhile I'll get a message from this gentleman, concerning one of his guests encountering a foppish Victorian ghost on the edge of their bed. Familiarity encourages sightings: Several longtime workers of the Dock Street Theatre have chanced upon a woman in antebellum attire, believed to be a red-haired woman of the evening, strolling casually through the building corridors. Perhaps the vagaries of chance also allow us to peer into an inexplicable pocket of another world.
I have had the great fortune of being on television numerous times since that fall night many years ago: The History Channel, Home & Garden Television, The Discovery Channel and Fox, being just a few. Since the December 2000 publication of our book, The Ghosts of Charleston, even more publicity on the subject and the city have risen. People are fascinated with the concept of ghosts interwoven with real history and the indescribable beauty of Charleston. The production teams for these networks know it. They always ask the same question: "Why are there so many ghosts in Charleston?" For years, my standard reply was a rambling response that explained this abundance of paranormal experiences as a result of the city's dual roles as whipping boy of Mother Nature and catbird seat of social upheaval. It did not sound convincing or true after one too many times. I now explain when asked that inevitable question, that spirits can crystallize around physical objects, be it an old Victrola or a 1786 single house. By decree, Charleston preserves such things, so there is a sense of familiarity here for the spectral world. To that dimension, this city looks as it did when they walked these streets encased in flesh and blood.
Charlestonians breed ghosts. We are stubborn enough to try to ride out a class five hurricane and obstinate enough to decry the ever-increasing tourism - the very lifeblood of our city's commerce. I once overheard a tiny, sun-hatted old Charleston dame, in that unmistakable Southern drawl, remark to a group of tourists: "People always come back to Charleston. It's the closest you'll ever get to paradise."
Perhaps she had the right answer to the much-asked media question. Perhaps this is why so many past residents still hang on to the Holy City - hundreds of years after they've ceased to breathe.
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